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Ears of corn lap up flames on outdoor grills; women get their braids coiled by the side of the road. Singh intersect with Bertha Mkhize and Dorothy Nyembe.

The heart of the city's Central Business District hums with a scene that plays out daily, with the most minor of variations, across Africa in Kinshasa, Dakar, Bulawayo, and Gaborone. Bollywood melodies waft down the street, colliding with pulsating Afropop tracks.

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And across the city, no-frills curry houses are snarled with brisk lunchtime business, serving spicy curries in bread bowls, a dish called bunny chow, by the hundreds.

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